February 2021
EVERY MONTH A DISH AND A WINE
Dreaming of the perfect pairing
February is the month of love. That’s why I have been thinking of an aphrodisiac pairing.
The dish is the iconic ‘Artichoke oysters’ of Tal Ronnen at Crossroads Kitchen in Los Angeles. Steamed artichoke leaves are the base for “oysters.” A play on bivalves au gratin, they get their meaty texture from a dollop of artichoke puree crowned with crisped oyster mushrooms, their richness from a yellow tomato béarnaise, and their marine kick from kelp “caviar” crunchy, salty beads.
I have paired these spectacular plant-based oysters with a French Champagne aged for many months in the depths of the ocean. Cuvée Abyss is a champagne with a distinct air of the sea. Equally, the first taste confirms the perfect quality of its origins and reflects the mineral and iodized character of its terroir.
To be totally effective the pairing should be enjoyed during a dinner by the sea eyes in the eyes with your person.
Artichoke oysters
Artichoke purée, crispy oyster mushrooms béarnaise and kelp caviar. This is the iconic dish of Tal Ronnen.
Leclerc Briant Abyss
A French Champagne aged for many months in the depths of the ocean.
